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This section is focused mainly on lighting reptiles and amphibians. With reference to UVA and UVB requirements.
Note that whereas UVB in particular, is critical for many species of reptiles.
Too much UVA or UVB may also cause problems and there are also many species which seem to be able to survive without additional UV.
Output of UVB from many lamps is very low, and output usually reduces over the life of the globe which may not be affective after as little as 6 months.
Some globes may produce too much UV which may cause eye problems and stress.
With many UVB lamps, especially older or weaker designs, a small am out of time (minutes) in the sun exposes a reptile to the equivalent of hours or days under a UVB lamp.
Heating is not as complicated and therefore it is easier to understand.
It is included n this page because heating is often supplied by heat lamps, which may be sold alongside UV and other lights. However ever one has a basic understanding of heat and how to measure it.
Heat is best supplied in a gradient so that the animal can move in to, or away from the heat to control its temperature. Thermostats are often used to keep the cage temperature at a reasonable temperature, and to simulate seasons to encourage breeding.
Besides some kind of light/lamp, ceramic heaters which are like lamps but do not emit light, heat mats or heat wire or heat rocks are often used for heating.
Care must be taken with high wattage (power) lights (over 60 watts) and ceramic heaters that the reptile cannot burn itself. Wire cages are often used to prevent snakes touching hot lamps.
A common mistake is to use too much heating for a small cage, controlled by a thermostat. That is very inefficient, often shortens the lifetime of the heating element
and may overheat the cage if the thermostat fails.